Range Rover Club of Australia

It’s along way to the Top!
This trip had been planned for some time and early this year those who had expressed an interest in participating met at our house for dinner and to finalise the itinerary. However, in late April, Cape York was flooded by record rainfalls, topped off as Cyclone Monica crossed the coast just to the south of Lockhart River on the afternoon of 19 April, dumping almost 300mm at Musgrave Roadhouse in 24 hours. Two weeks before our departure all roads on the Cape were closed due to severe flood damage, and it looked as if an alternative destination would have to be found. It was only days before we departed that the main Cape Development Road was opened from Cairns to Weipa.

Regardless, on Saturday morning 27 May, John and Helen, Rob Bob and Robert and Joanne met at the BP Burpengary to start our journey. Rob, Anita, Jasmine and Mitchell had arranged to meet us the following day at the Town of 1770.

Our first stop was Bundaberg and at the Ginger Beer factory we met up with a group from the Toowoomba Jaguar Car Club. On Sunday morning we made the pilgrimage to the Bundaberg Rum Distillery, before heading north to Miara Beach for lunch. At Rosedale on the road into Agnes Waters the Kann’s made radio contact and shortly caught up with our small convoy. We set up camp on our second night in the council campground at Workman’s Beach.

Day 3 we woke in a bush camp on the beach, absolutely full of backpackers and families, about a kilometre out of 1770. After having a walk along the beach and around the headland, then a quick tour around this beautiful area, we travelled on with full convoy past Rockhampton., and an overnight bush camp with Joanne’s sister and her husband, at Upper Stoney Creek, near Yeppoon. The following day we journeyed on to Seaforth, 420km, stopping for lunch and homemade cakes at Clairview, on the ocean.

We stayed again right on the ocean at the Seaforth campground for 2 nights and all agreed we could really recommend this spot. Rob set his crab traps, no luck, so into the fish shop. Cool nights, great days. From Seaforth we travelled on to Airlie Beach for an overnight stay, but as we headed towards Bowen the next morning the convoy came to a stop as Rob Bob’s transmission light had come on. We made it to the Bowen RACQ repairer, who was not able to look at the vehicle until the afternoon. After much discussion it was agreed to leave Rob Bob in Bowen with his vehicle as it would take some time to repair and met up with him latter in Cairns.

We stopped at Home Hill for lunch, which has a free 24 hour stop over facility. It had all you would need for an overnight stay such as toilets, showers, washing up facilities and covered picnic areas. Needless to say there were many travellers stopped there so we imagined it would be a very busy there overnight. We were on the road again by about 1:00pm and heading towards Townsville. Rob saw a crocodile floating in a river as we drove over the bridge. I was thinking if they are as easy to see as that we were going to be in ‘great danger’. Little did we know that would be the one and only sighting for the whole trip. By 3:45 pm we arrived at Jourama Falls National Park, were we set-up and were off for a quick walk. That night we had out door movies.

After pack up we set-off for a walk to the Jourama Falls. On this walk Rob saw a black snake and latter a little brown snake. He was turning into quite the nature spotter. We were on the road again by about 10am and for morning tea stopped at a lovely bakery at Cardwell. The trip leaders were disciplined enough to ignore some lovely looking markets and pushed on for Cairns which we reached by about 2:00pm.

Palm Cove, the spot itself is lovely but the Caravan Park could have done with a revamp. After setting-up we all cruised the main street to look for tour prices and a place to have dinner.

We had dinner at the Surf Club, and later hunted out a nice place for coffee and desert. At dinner we got in contact with Rob Bob who was still in Bowen. He was waiting for his vehicle to be flat bedded to Townsville on Monday, as it needed work performed that Bowen did not have the facilities or parts for. Rob Bob joined the RACQ when he was in Bowen, which turned out to be a fortunate choice.

Sunday morning in Cairns we looked at the harbour and for further deals, in the end went back to Palm Cove and chose a package to do Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Centre that afternoon, Green Island trip Monday and the Kuranda train and Skyrail on Tuesday. The children and ourselves enjoyed the cultural centre immensely. Established in 1987 on 25 acres of land it allows people to see the culture and history of the Tjapukai aboriginals. The kids especially enjoyed the dance theatre and spear and boomerang throwing.

With everyone engaged in these touristy activities for a while it seemed that Cairns was our final destination. However, by Wednesday Rob Bob had caught up with us and we were off to Cape Tribulation. The drive north of Cairns was full of picture postcard views, but otherwise uneventful. Although when we purchased one-way tickets for the Daintree ferry the attendant’s reaction was enough to cause us some doubts about our plans to travel the Bloomfield track to Cooktown. That night we stayed at a campground on the beach just south of Cape Tribulation and walked to PK’s Jungle Village for a group dinner.

The following morning there were showers before we started, increasing our apprehension of the track ahead, but by the time we left the bitumen everyone was looking forward to the coming adventure. For a lot of the way we were in low range to tackle the steep grades on the track, but otherwise the track surface was in reasonable condition. After morning tea at Ayton and lunch at the Lion’s Den we stayed overnight at the Big 4 caravan park in Cooktown. That night we met up with Mark and Sonya and their young family from NSW (Prado), and they accompanied us to the Top and back to Laura.

Whilst in Cooktown we found out that the Battlecamp Road had just been opened, although camping in Lakefield NP was still closed. There was more rain as we climbed the Battlecamp Range. The road was good with no major corrugations, and the first few creek crossings provided some variety but rapidly became routine.

On the banks of the Normanby River we met a German couple who were hesitant about crossing in their rented Troopy. Rob Bob gave the German lass some special tuition and they drove through the knee-deep water without incident. Unfortunately the soft deep gravel bed was too much for our towing vehicles and we all required assistance to cross. Once across and dried out we continued on to the next obstacle; the Laura River.

The Laura River is about 100m wide but the floodwaters had subsided leaving a small stream on the Eastern end of the broad gravel bed. Once again the extra weight of the caravans provided a handicap until we lowered our tyre pressures. Only the Prado required assistance. By the time we were all through it was time for lunch at Old Laura homestead, then on to our overnight camp at the Hann River Roadhouse.

The road from Hann River to Weipa was generally good, except for the stretch between Coen and Archer River, which was still badly cut up with lots of dips. The road into Weipa was like a freeway, locals said it was the best they’d ever seen it. We stayed at Weipa for three days. Sunday was catch-up day, clean cars, do washing, relaxing watching the beautiful sunsets, here again a great spot, right on the beach. Very hot. Lots of wind, kids in pool. Monday trip to Mapoon. Too windy, nothing there without a boat to fish from. So back to the Pennefather River for lunch, lots of sand, Best’s lost and bogged in the sand hills, so tyres down and then ontobeach to find the others.

Stayed up to watch Australia-Japan match with our NSW Prado tag-a-longs. GREAT result had a lot of trouble keeping quiet, while all the Queenslanders slept. Tuesday prepared vehicles for camping and vans to be stored at Weipa. Still awaiting Robert's alternator to arrive from Brisbane, did a big shop at Woolies. Had a big banquet dinner before leaving next day.

Awoke to average weather, overcast but not cold, finished packing and set off, three cars with tents and two with camper trailers on the way to “The Tip”. The road was in excellent condition, a bit wet, and lots of road works, but the conditions were good. Rob Bob had radiator troubles, stopped a few times, finally ran out of antifreeze to top him up, so Robert towed him 20 klm into Moreton Telegraph Station late in the afternoon.

The two Robs worked under adverse conditions, rain, wind and poor light. Thursday Rob’s car was mobile afterpatching the radiator with goo, so we all hit the Wenlock for a bit of fishing. Fourteen of us set out, only one, our fearless leader was successful, and he managed to bag a good size Barra. The fire was started, and the feast prepared. All of us dug into Robert’s prize. Friday on road early, no fuel at Bramwell Junction, no deliveries were able to get through, Best’s in trouble, luckily Rob Kann had a jerry can, which took the worry out.

The 4WD Monthly magazine crew were ‘testing’ vehicles up the OTL for the 2006 4WD of the Year award. We took the 4 klm detour to Palm Creek to check on their progress and managed to have our photo taken. Watch for it in the November issue! By this early stage of testing the Disco 3 had disgraced itself and was dispatched back to Cairns. Lunch was at Fruit Bat Falls, a beautiful spot in the middle of nowhere. A flat tyre added to the days events, but the best was yet to come. Crossing the Jardine River on the $88 Ferry, the Green Disco refused to start, after holding our breath for some time, it finally started so onto Seisia Campground. A faulty starter motor was diagnosed by the two Rob’s, so RACQ was called and the Green Disco was trucked off to be repaired. Seisia Campground was a great spot on the water next to a fishing pier, with excellent under-cover type camp kitchens for most areas. So far no more fish. Bamaga RACQ reported that the Green Disco’s solenoid was worn out. Luckily the startermotor was a Nippondenso so parts were available and it was only off the road for one day, the day we drove to the Tip, so John and Helen hitched a ride with the rest of the convoy. The drive to the top has to be one of the most diverse that we had travelled. From open plains to rainforest which has more in common with those in Papua New Guinea than those on the rest of the mainland, the scenery changed as rapidly as the road conditions. After two and a half hours drive we unpacked the champagne, lunches and cameras into the backpacks and the 5 children very excitedly stormed ahead. Mitchell had his bike and was determined to ride tothe tip. Walking along the boardwalk saves slogging through the swamp to the rock hills that has to be climbed. Rob ends up carrying Mitchell’s bike, something he is quite used to.

We reach the tip and all are excited. We have the place all to The 4WD Monthly magazine crew were ‘testing’ vehicles up the OTL for the 2006 4WD of the Year award. We took the 4 klm detour to Palm Creek to check on their progress and managed to have our photo taken. Watch for it in the November issue! By this early stage of testing the Disco 3 had disgraced itself and was dispatched back to Cairns.

Lunch was at Fruit Bat Falls, a beautiful spot in the middle of nowhere. A flat tyre added to the days events, but the best was yet to come. Crossing the Jardine River on the $88 Ferry, the Green Disco refused to start, after holding our breath for some time, it finally started so onto Seisia Campground. A faulty starter motor was diagnosed by the two Rob’s, so RACQ was called and the Green Disco was trucked off to be repaired. Seisia Campground was a great spot on the water next to a fishing pier, with excellent under-cover type camp kitchens for most areas. So far no more fish. Bamaga RACQ reported that the Green Disco’s solenoid was worn out. Luckily the starter ourselves which we are told is quite rare these days. To the left and the right is ocean.

Ahead are the Torres Straits and behind us has been 1,000s of kms of red dirt roads. Lot of photos were taken at the sign and true to Range Rover Club style we drink and eat aplenty. Finally with our mission completed we walked back via Frangipanni Beach.

Beside what would be considered the car park for the walk to the tip is an abandoned resort. Started by TAA and given away as prizes on Sale of the Century, the resort was handed back to the Injinoo. Unfortunately after a fire in the generation plant it was left for the forest to take over. On our way home we stopped at a tourist place called the Croc Tent to buy our souvenirs. The owner is very interesting and told us how he and his wife hiked from Coen to the tip. To end the day the men tried their luck with a spot of fishing from the famous Seisia pier.

After a relaxing morning we head off at about 11:00 am in search of World War Two plane wrecks. By 11:30 am Rob Bob has broken down and we call the RACQ once again. The RACQ decide to tow Rob Bob’s car away, which starts a whole new drama. Rob Bob’s car could not be towed on its rear wheels so they had to drop the drive shaft. The RACQ truck would then not start so Rob had to jump-start it, but this would not work. So Rob used our Disco to tow the RACQ vehicle, towing Rob Bob’s car. Rob Bob’s car was eventually towed away at 1:07pm and we were back on the road, with Rob Bob in the Robert and Joanne’s car. Rob this time remembered to save the beer from Rob Bob’s car before it was towed away.

Saw two snakes doing their best to impersonate cobra’s. Standing half their body length in the air their bodies were intertwined either fighting or dancing together in the middle of the track. When they sensed they were being watched they slithered away. We stopped at the Beaufort plane wreck to have lunch at about 2:00pm. Rob’s Grandfather served in the Army at the site when it crashed. It’s hard to visualise the area how it must have been during WW2 now the area is so overgrown. We drove into Injinoo formerly Cowan Creek an Aboriginal community. It was an eye opener.

Not content just to visit the top of the Continent we were all up early the following day to catch our boat to Thursday Island, which was another bumpy ride and I was a shade of green by the time we reached our destination. The cultural centre was very interesting and full of history and stories. We all walked to the cemetery up a very step hill to see the pearl divers graves of past centuries and then onwards and upwards to the fort. This was where large cannons were in case of attack from the Russians before WW1. After our walk of the Island we commenced our pub crawl which finished with lunch at the Grand Hotel. We were back on the return fairy by 2:30 pm to return to Seisia. On our return Rob Bob went to check the situation with his car and he found that he had a transmission problem which could not be repaired and had to take it back to Cairns on the boat. Rob Bob also had to arrange for his trailer to be picked up from Weipa to go with his car to Cairns.

By this time the Disco 3 had arrived from Palm Creek and was loaded into a container alongside Rob Bob’s. It was now time to pack again and start the long journey home, without Rob Bob, and by 11.30 amwe were back at the Jardine River barge. We travelled down the Telegraph Track and that night camped at Elliot Falls, which is a beautiful swimming spot and the falls are very full. The plan was to camp here for two nights; however the Aherns and the Bests decide only to stay for one night and take the opportunity to go into Weipa to collect their sadly missed caravans with the intention of meeting the rest of the convoy at the Archer River Roadhouse. The Aherns and Bests travelled down the old telegraph track as far as Cockatoo Creek, but without a winch, decided it was not safe to cross, deciding instead to backtrack 40 klm to the Bypass Road and on to Weipa.

At Weipa Robert and Joanne and John and Helen re-unite with their caravans, rejuvenate and have a resort seafood dinner while Rob and Anita and the Lewins continue to camp at Elliot falls. We commenced the day with a lovely swim inthe very clear falls before breakfast and then set off with the Lewins to explore the telegraph track. We drove over the log bridge and on to Nolans Brook.

Rob walked through it, realized it was still way too high to drive through, near window sill height, so we had lunch and a swim and headed back to camp. We had another swim in the falls, prepared a camp fire, made damper and chatted into the night. The next morning it was rainy, so Rob and I packed up in record speed. We continued to drive on the telegraph track on to Fruit Bat Falls but on reaching Cockatoo Creek we sat and contemplated for a long time and the men walked the creek a few times.

Finally, when we had almost decided to turn around a vehicle approached from the other side. We watched them cross, they had to winch themselves down to the creek and then drove across fairly easily. They encouraged us to cross, so the Lewins who had a winch crossed first and needed to winch themselves up the bank. We then crossed and the Lewins winched us up the bank. It was not until we looked at the photos that we realized the water had come right up to the windscreen wipers.

A little after this crossing we came across two tracks, which had water across them. We picked the wrong track because as we crossed we sank. It wasn’t long before the water started to seep in. Rob had to climb out the window and luckily the Lewins were close behind and could pull us out relatively promptly. This was a very muddy patch of water and the floor of our car was fairly well covered with a silt mud and our CD player, which is under the driver’s seat, has never been the same again. We drove on and made it to Gunshot, it looked very difficult to cross with only one lone tree left to use if required to winch. We decided to turn back and go the alternative route. Of course, our car gave us a scare and wouldn’t start. We decided to wait and have lunch and hope for the best as we could not have been in more of a remote place.

Luckily after lunch it started and we were off on the alternative route. We went back to the main road via the ranger station and drove on to Archer River to meet the others who were coming from Weipa. We had a lot of ground to cover and did not get in that night until about 6:00 pm and the others were a little concerned about us. We stayed at Archer River Roadhouse for the day and we had a day of rest. This included cleaning and drying out the car, washing clothes etc. In the afternoon Robert and Joanne used their camp oven and we made various breads and scones.

We invited a young push bike rider, Andrew Heard, over for afternoon tea and a drink. He was riding his push bike pulling a trailer from the furthest point in Tasmania up to Cape York. You can follow him on the web (ozbybike.com) (photo of Andrew crossing Cockatoo Creek). From Archer River we continued our way south to Laura over the worst roads encountered on the trip, but by this time the road had been opened to Road Trains. At Laura we attended the annual rodeo. Here we also parted company with the Lewins who were continuing their round-Australia trip.

Once south of Laura signs of civilisation were rapidly appearing and in no time at all we reached the relative metropolis of Mareeba. Where John and Helen headed home. From here the Kanns and Aherns travelled home via the Chillagoe caves, the Undarra lava tubes, Charters Towers, Emerald, Comet and Bundaberg.